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View Full Version : Where to mount control head for Raymarine Smartpilot X-5 Tiller Autopilot?



todd22123
03-15-2011, 02:47 PM
Greetings-
I am in the process of installing Raymarine Smartpilot X-5 Tiller on an Express 27. I am wondering where to install the control head. The main choices are on the forward facing bulkhead at the aft end of the cockpit or the aft facing bulkhead at the forward end of the cockpit. I guess it could go on the side of the cockpit, as well. It seems like for attaching and unattaching the drive unit, the aft position would be best, and maybe for maneuvers, the forward position would be best. Any opinions?
Thank you,
Todd

Phil MacFarlane
03-15-2011, 07:08 PM
You should put it wher you can reach it while on either side of the cockpit and also while your other hand is on the tiller.
I have an Alpha 3000 on Sail a Vie. I used to have the control haed mounted in the cockpit. I moved it to just inside the boat. mounted to the underside of the deck right next to the sliding top of the companionway.
If you plan on long distance single handing this is a good place for it as you can adjust course without coming on deck. I can reach it from either side of the cockpit and while my other hand is driving. If I'm outside and the companionway is shut up for weather, then I have to slide the top open just a few inches. You can make a mount out of abs plastic and bend it as needed with heat.
It also docent hurt that it would be out of the weather. On that subject, you should make a sunbrella sock fot the drive unit. Try to keep as much water as possible off it.

Wylieguy
03-16-2011, 09:26 AM
I'm installing an X-5 on my Wyliecat 30. No transom and I think a side mount would be awkward, so it's the cabin bulkhead for the control head. I think it's important to both reach and see the control head. Inside makes both difficult, especially if the hatch boards are in place.
The compass is going under the cabin sole - middle of boat, down low. The computer's in the head compartment (which has become the nav center), along with the VHF/SSB radios.
I'm mounting the ram on the port side of the cockpit since the only cockpit locker is on the starboard side. The present Autohelm 1000 is mounted on top of the locker lid, which makes opening the locker difficult when using the autopilot. That's where the Honda generator lives, so access is important.
Now I have to figure out how to connect the TackTick wind instrument to the X-5 so it can steer to the wind. Some say the NMEA translator doesn't work very well and the TackTick unit is expensive! Yikes.
Pat Broderick "NANCY"

Critter
03-16-2011, 03:30 PM
Todd, I puzzled over the same question with my X5. I finally put the control head on the inside of the port cockpit coaming, just ahead of the ram, because I decided it was most important to be able to get the ram on/off the tiller and switch between Auto/Standby in quick succession.

Yes, it's inconvenient sometimes. I have to leave the cabin to make a course change, and even if I'm in the cockpit it can be an awkward twist or reach. Maybe I'll look at moving it forward if I ever feel like filling a big hole in the fiberglass, but I can't move it very far or it'll get bashed every time I open a cockpit locker.

Max

cafemontaigne
03-16-2011, 04:37 PM
My boat has one mounted on the aft of the cockpit, below the tiller. Very practical for connecting/disconnecting the unit, but it has several disadvantages:
1) if you're in the boat when something goes haywire, you have to jump out the companionway and dive across the cockpit to get to it, or even just to adjust it. I was doing this often and getting bruised a lot.
2) the unit is mounted backwards, so the +/- adjustment buttons seem to work backwards. A little counterintuitive, but you get used to it.
3) the unit is mounted low enough that if (when) the cockpit fills with water, the face could be underwater. This hasn't been an issue so far for me, and I've flooded the cockpit twice.

For the transpac I wanted a backup in case the control head fried (not a completely unlikely scenario - my wind instrument got water damage), so I mounted a second one next to the companionway. With this I can adjust the AP while sitting in the companionway, which is invaluable. Also, I could steer by the compass display on the AP, which I did a lot, especially at night.

When I got home I took the second unit off and kept the one at the aft end of the cockpit in. It's really fine for short sails, and makes connecting/disconnecting the AP super easy. For long sails, where you're not disconnecting the unit so much, the forward position might be better.

Adrian

Ragnar
04-05-2011, 05:53 PM
Todd,

I know I'm late to that party here, but I mounted my control head on the starboard inside of my cockpit. It's not a bad spot. I can deal with the sideways issue. My Tartan Ten has a very long cockpit, so on the forward bulkhead was way out of reach and I didn't think my brain could deal with it mounted backwards on the transom, so I went with a side mount back near the tiller.

I splurged and bought the remote so I can adjust course from in the cabin and even the bunk - very handy when the off-course or wind shift alarms go off.

Whitall

todd22123
05-03-2011, 06:49 PM
I installed the Autopilot X5. Was able to calibrate fine. Then I have had an issue. I spoke with someone from Raymarine this AM, sent the course computer to Raymarine in New Hampshire.

this is the text of the note I sent along:

"Raymarine
21 Manchester St
Merrimack NH 03054

Please test the enclosed course computer. It is part of a SmartPilot X-5 Tiller installation. This is using a 6002 Control Head. I called this morning, explained what I am seeing to a Raymarine Customer Support Person. He advised to send in the Course Computer as the next step.

This is a new installation. The power leads are 12G from distribution panel to the course computer. The voltage at the course computer is 12.8V. The installation is on an Express 27 sailboat. When I put the autopilot to Auto, after a variable length of time, it switches back to Standby.

After installation, I was able to carry out calibration.

Sometimes, it will stay in Auto longer than 1 minute, sometimes, it switches back to Standby after just a few seconds, and sometimes when in Standby, after pushing Auto, there is a brief message “STARTUP” before going back to Standby, and it will not go into Auto.

When I tried to get the Software Information, the first screen says VERSION 5.00, the next screen says STARTU without giving the Course Computer Software Version, and the next screen gives 00000 hrs.

My return address is:

Todd Olsen
address
phone number

Thank you,"

I will post what happens. Right now, I suspect the Course Computer, but I, myself, am probably the main suspect.

Todd

Culebra
05-03-2011, 10:55 PM
Sounds to me like the course computer is intermittently disconnected from power. Make sure the wires insert all the way into the screw terminals, and the make the terminals very tight where the main power leads connect to the course computer. Also check the independent ground connection to the course computer. If all is secure there, then check the connections on the breaker panel end of the power leads. If you are using an in-line fuse, make sure the fuse holder is not corroded, or that the spring hasn't sprung, or the solder joints aren't broken where the fuse holder wires attach to the nub ends of the fuse holder. Is the 12G wire new? Is it perhaps compromised somewhere, that sort of thing.

Paul/Culebra

todd22123
05-04-2011, 06:02 AM
Hi Paul,

Thank you for the suggestions. I will double check all this. Wiring is new. I did it myself, so ... Used the marine ancor wire, crimp heat shrink terminals with a ratcheting crimper.

The boat had no electrical system, so I installed battery and distribution panel.

For a ground, there is a 10G wire that goes from a stainless strap connected to a keel bolt(some obvious superficial corrosion on original strap) to distribution panel ground strap the 12G wire to course computer. Perhaps that is not a sufficicient ground. If the course computer checks out ok, I can try to troubleshoot by connecting the ground wire to some metal hung over the side into the ocean.

There is also a 25W solar panel in the system to keep the battery topped off.

I will keep you posted on what happens.

Todd

Culebra
05-04-2011, 01:43 PM
Sounds like you've got a good installation. But if it is the wiring (for the main power), then for me the most likely place is where the 2 power wires feed into those green plastic screw terminals on the course computer. It's a long shot, but it wouldn't be hard to miss getting the wire fed all the way in, and maybe the screw isn't capturing it against the housing. Or perhaps the little individual strands of wire have had time to compress and work their way into the crannies of that little socket (if you didn't tin the wire with solder), and now you could have a wire that loses contact in there. As I said, a long shot, but worth checking. I think hanging the ground over the side would be overkill, but do check to see if it is loose on either end.

Good luck!
Paul/Culebra

Ragnar
05-04-2011, 07:50 PM
I agree with Paul, it sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere. I've had lots of X-5 autopilot issues, but the problems were never found to be the computer.

Slacker

todd22123
05-05-2011, 10:19 PM
ok. Once I hear from Raymarine, if the course computer checks out ok, I will try tinning the power leads, reconnect, etc. I was able to do a complete calibration with the original installation, so the power leads must have been sufficient for that. Thanks, Todd

davek
05-13-2011, 11:34 AM
I am about to start the process of installing that system in my Olson 29. It currently has all systems grounded to the negative post on the battery(it's an inboard). If I were to ground to the head of the keel bolt, would the ground be complete through the keel to the water? It's antifouling is VC-17(great lakes fresh water boat).
Also having trouble deciding where to mount control head. Am considering inside of transom and dealing with the opposite direction issue. Currently, with my ST4000, I have the control head on the port side of the companionway. It's a pain, as you can't reach it while holding the tiller, especially if your heeled to the opposite side. I don't recommend it.
Any input on whether it's possible to connect 2 control heads up? And whether the ST4002 control head is the same? Certainly looks the same. If not, I am going to leave it where it is, and connect it to the fluxgate compass (as I now have 2) and use it as a digital compass. Plus, I like the redundancy factor.

BobJ
05-13-2011, 12:11 PM
The 4000+ control head will not run the X-5 computer (nor will an old 6001 head). However the drive units will respond to either system. I have the X-5 and 4000 and can switch between them on the fly without touching the drive unit.

On RAGTIME! the 6002 head is on the aft face of the cabin trunk just to starboard, and the 4000 head is on the lower drop board (which stays in place). When solo I'm almost always on autopilot but if I want to steer I hit "Standby," go aft and remove the ram from the tiller, and steer. In reverse - center the tiller, attach the ram, lean forward and hit "Autopilot."

I've never felt like I needed a control head back there. With the open transom it would be really exposed on my boat - I suspect if it got wet inside it would take down the whole system.

cafemontaigne
05-17-2011, 12:30 PM
I am about to start the process of installing that system in my Olson 29. It currently has all systems grounded to the negative post on the battery(it's an inboard). If I were to ground to the head of the keel bolt, would the ground be complete through the keel to the water? It's antifouling is VC-17(great lakes fresh water boat).
Also having trouble deciding where to mount control head. Am considering inside of transom and dealing with the opposite direction issue. Currently, with my ST4000, I have the control head on the port side of the companionway. It's a pain, as you can't reach it while holding the tiller, especially if your heeled to the opposite side. I don't recommend it.
Any input on whether it's possible to connect 2 control heads up? And whether the ST4002 control head is the same? Certainly looks the same. If not, I am going to leave it where it is, and connect it to the fluxgate compass (as I now have 2) and use it as a digital compass. Plus, I like the redundancy factor.

I grounded all the electronics and electrical system to the negative of the batteries. I believe the X5 computer has a separate grounding terminal, which I did not connect to anything. My RF ground for the SSB is on the keelbolt, and I understand RF ground and electrical ground should be kept separate. I don't really see a good reason to ground the APs or electrical system to the keelbolt. In fact there may be reasons you wouldn't want to (electrolysis, lightning...).

I have two 6002 heads connected to the X5s. They work fine together.

todd22123
05-18-2011, 09:00 PM
Raymarine sent the course computer back with a message that said, "course computer bench tested, cust complaint confirmed, replaced pcb, unit re-tested" I think that is printed circuit board. the pcb is the whole course computer minus the plastic housing, so that is not very satisfying, as I would like to know which component or whatever is not correct. anyway, I will reinstall and update. todd

Submarino
05-23-2011, 03:36 AM
Last week I installed mine into the cockpit transom because I wanted it close by the helm. Soon, I will get a remote for when I'm farther.

I tried to get it working Friday before Farallones race, but I could not get power. Hello "1/2in surgical tubing" 1/1000 of the X5 price for close reach/close haul work.

Good Luck on the fix and I'll post when I get mine up and running.

Culebra
06-01-2011, 08:39 PM
Raymarine sent the course computer back with a message that said, "course computer bench tested, cust complaint confirmed, replaced pcb, unit re-tested" I think that is printed circuit board. the pcb is the whole course computer minus the plastic housing, so that is not very satisfying, as I would like to know which component or whatever is not correct. anyway, I will reinstall and update. todd

Did it work, Todd? And did you check to see what software version it is?

News item for X-5 owners. Course computers manufactured before May-2010 (or roughly that) have a recall item. I discovered this because my course computer started acting up during the Lightship race. I sent the computer to Raymarine to check it out. I didn't know about the recall at the time. Apparently there's a "coil" component (part L76) involved in the computer's process of getting and displaying the correct heading from the fluxgate compass. The connection from the coil to the circuit board tends to break with vibration/fatigue. The fix: Raymarine adds a beefy jumper to the coil. While they're at it, they update the computer with the latest software version, which is currently v1.20, and which they say corrects issues found in older versions (not specific to which issues). They said my unit was probably acting up due to the software, not the recall issue. They updated both. I've not reinstalled the course computer yet to test its performance. (I'll wait until after LongPac.) The spare is working fine, which by the way came with the new software but still has the fragile coil connection. Raymarine said to wait before sending in my spare unit for the recall item--a new software version is coming out in a few months and I could get them both at that time.

Ah... Raymarine woes. Actually, they're really good about the warranty work, and their techs are very helpful and knowledgeable.

I might add, if anyone's X-5 pilot is not performing like you expect it should (response to seas, wind changes, following the course you enter, that sort of thing), and you don't have v1.20, then I think there's good reason to suspect it isn't working right. Send it in and get the newest software (either now or in a few months).

Paul/Culebra

todd22123
06-02-2011, 08:55 PM
Hi Paul,

I was going to wait until I have a little more information before updating. I reinstalled the Course Computer. Was able to calibrate, next step will be to take it sailing a few times to be sure it does not do what it was doing before, that is going from Auto to Standby on its own.

I will check the software version next time I go to the boat. I would really like to know more about what caused the course computer to need replacement of the entire PCB. So I called Raymarine, was able to speak with the tech who replaced the PCB. He said that the faulty PCB had been sent to the "factory" for evaluation. He would have additional information once that had taken place. Did not offer to contact me, but did give me his phone number so I can call back in a month and inquire.

By one month from now, I should know if the AP is working correctly and, hopefully, will have a little better idea about what was wrong on the original cource computer PCB.

Todd

todd22123
08-09-2011, 02:42 PM
The reinstalled Autopilot with the new course computer PCB seems to work well. I have not seen any more episodes of switching from Auto to Standby on it's own.

I was able to speak with the Raymarine Tech today regarding which component on the PCB was faulty. Similar to Paul's post, he indicated that there is a "coil" on the PCB and noise from the coil sets off the unit causing it to convert itself from Auto to Standby. I had a little difficulty understanding his accent, and I do not have complete understanding of the techical factors, so this is just a sketch of what I heard. He indicated that Raymarine has issued a technical advisory bulletin to the repair techs indicating what to do for this problem. The fix is to replace the coil with a zero ohm resistor (a jump). Also, for units sent in with software older than version 130, the software should be upgraded to 130. The older software works fine, but one of the new features of version 130 is the unit will beep an alarm if it switches from Auto to Standby on its own.

I have software version 120. The tech advised me that when I anticipate not using the unit for 3 weeks or so, I should consider sending it in, and he will perform the removal of the coil, insertion of the jump, and update the software. My sense is if I do this the unit may be a little more reliable than if I don't.

Todd

marinergeek
08-27-2011, 11:47 AM
Could you post some pictures of the installation, I just purchased hull #44 and will be installing an X-5 later this year. Any tips to pass along?
Bill

todd22123
08-29-2011, 04:20 PM
hi Bill, i posted a few photos. http://tinyurl.com/3vnxmf5 as far as tips, the directions are complete and well written. it is probably important to use marine wire and ensure it is the proper size for the wire run from the battery to the ram. at least one person, Idefix Adrian Johnson, i believe did not establish a separate ground wire with no ill effects after sailing to and from hawaii. that could possibly save some work.


Todd

marinergeek
09-10-2011, 05:55 PM
Hi Todd,
That gave me a good idea what to expect, thanks. Did you ground to the negative battery terminal? or a separate ground to a keel bolt / plate.

Bill

todd22123
09-10-2011, 10:09 PM
Separate ground to keel bolt.

brianb
09-25-2011, 09:45 PM
A quick observation about the X5 and rudder sensor:

I have about 13 hrs on my X5 install. I have two independent drives tied to tiller. One uses a rudder sensor I made, the other runs the motorized drive unit without rudder sensor. The great thing about a rudder sensor is that you never get motor over drive and subsequent AP switch to stand bye. If I am running with the electrical drive unit, W/O sensor, gusty conditions will force the ram all the way to the extremes. THen motor current skyrockets and the X5 shuts down. With the above deck hydraulic unit and sensor the X5 knows how far it can travel and hence never goes to a extreme forcing the motor into high currents. Obviously, if one were asleep or forward, the rudder sensor adds keeps the AP in AUTO mode adding a touch of assurance to course holding.

Brian

BobJ
09-26-2011, 01:03 PM
Brian, I upgraded from Ray's S1G to the X-5, mostly to get rid of the rudder sensor (the S1G required one). My boat is lighter than yours and if I'm careful to keep the sail plan reasonably balanced, I don't get the drive overload error to which you refer.

However, especially with the kite up in ocean conditions, I'm starting to think the X-5 without the sensor isn't as sharp as was the S1G. I recently bought another rotary sensor and could easily install it back there - although I don't really want to since it's very exposed on my boat.

So the question: Do you think adding the rudder sensor to the X-5 will improve its sensitivity or responsiveness? From what I've read, it only seems to be used to provide input to the rudder position instrument (if you have one).

Also a "For Sale" item: I have an older but never-used Raymarine linear rudder position sensor, waterproofed for use with outboards. A few boats have used these linear sensors, usually piggybacked on the drive unit, rather than the rotary-type sensor. Raymarine still makes it and it's worth a couple hundred bucks - but if it fits your application let me know and I'll sell it cheap.

brianb
09-29-2011, 09:13 PM
Hi Bob,

I don't think it alters sensitivity, a bit hard to tell actually. The dynamics seem the same with and without the sensor. I made a sensor that is well protected and due to the approach can not be broken by turning the tiller too far (some boats have had that happen).

As far as purchasing a sensor, no need. They are quite easy to construct and cost is nil.

Have you thought about going below deck and tying a multi turn sensor to the rudder post ? This eliminates the possibility of breaking the sensor and puts it out of the weather.

Regards,

Brian

brianb
09-29-2011, 09:18 PM
Bob

So here is an example of a home made below deck sensor. I did something like this above deck but integrated with hydraulics.

http://northernlight.vermontficks.org/rudder_sensor.html


You need to know a little about the electronics but not much. I spent about $15 to build my sensor, and of course install time.

BobJ
10-01-2011, 11:12 PM
Ragtime!'s rudder post tube is glassed in from the cockpit floor to the hull so nothing can be attached down there. I don't really want to cut it open, though some have done it (the Moore 24 "Color Blind" and Express 27 "Mirage" come to mind).

I'll wait for the pending X-5 software upgrade and see if it improves the performance. If not, I'll revisit all this.

I sold the linear rudder reference at the meeting and maybe the rotary unit will be available before long. I'd rather be able to "leave home without it."

Brian, I have your original survey from LongPac inspections in 2009 - I need to get that back to you!

brianb
10-02-2011, 09:13 AM
Bob,

Are you saying RM has a new rotary ref. coming out ? They already have one, with the little arm, thought that was considered rotary.

If there is room behind your above deck post you could but a couple components in a sealed box and tie with a belt or line to the rudder post.

It makes sense that X5 perf could not be quite as good without a rudder ref. The SW has to assume a certain amount of control input causes a known amount of rudder movement. Under heavy load this assumption likely breaks down. The pilot doesn't realize that its command to react to a sudden yaw shift didn't really happen so it doesn t know to push more energy into the motor to get to the desired rudder setting.

Keep us posted on the software upgrade results. I should probably do the same with mine.

Oh the survey. You could mail it to me ? I have a hard time getting to the meetings on time due to traffic from S Bay.

BobJ
10-02-2011, 10:05 AM
No, I bought another RM rotary reference on E-Bay recently. Your explanation makes a lot of sense so now I'm leaning towards re-installing it. It screws to the top of the tiller's base on the axis of the rudder post, with the rod fixed to the cockpit side. It's fixed on the centerline and the tiller turns underneath it (it's wired in reverse). It worked fine for several years (and two SHTP's) but I kicked the rod pretty hard a couple of times and was always afraid I'd break it.

Do you still live on Country Lane?

brianb
10-02-2011, 05:06 PM
Hi Bob,

THat mounting sounds like a good approach, except the kicking part. Maybe fix the reference arm with two small bunji's or some type of spring ? If you hit it somehow nothing breaks ?

My address is NOT on country lane. I will try to send you a PM,if this board has the function.

Brian

brianb
11-06-2011, 07:21 PM
Hi Bob,

Sent you a PM (private message). Take a look.

Brian


No, I bought another RM rotary reference on E-Bay recently. Your explanation makes a lot of sense so now I'm leaning towards re-installing it. It screws to the top of the tiller's base on the axis of the rudder post, with the rod fixed to the cockpit side. It's fixed on the centerline and the tiller turns underneath it (it's wired in reverse). It worked fine for several years (and two SHTP's) but I kicked the rod pretty hard a couple of times and was always afraid I'd break it.

Do you still live on Country Lane?