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Philpott
10-12-2012, 04:19 PM
Does anyone have a Norvane windvane? They are made in Carlsbad. Any feedback? They are $2000 less than a Monitor new. It's a servo-pendulum type windvane. I'd appreciate any comments. Tom @ Blue Pelican once told me that he deals only in Monitors and their parts because it is such a reputable product. A reputable product is one good reason to buy a Monitor, of course, and the ability to get parts at Blue Pelican another. But still. $2000.

BobJ
10-14-2012, 10:29 AM
I've never seen a Norvane but I'll hijack your thread anyway - muhahahaha!

With the STR* still in mind, I've thought about a windvane for Ragtime! as a backup to the electric AP's. As much as I like Hans and his Monitors, his is a one-size-fits-all solution and it simply weighs too much for my boat. The J/92 is especially sensitive to excess weight aft.

I looked at the WindPilot "Pacific Light" Adam had on Blue Moon. It appeared to be well-made and is much lighter than the Monitor. WindPilot's larger "Pacific" model is better suited to my boat (at racing speeds/loads) but weighs as much as the Monitor, so I'm thinking about a "Pacific Light" to be used only as a backup.

I pretty sure if Hans designed a Monitor for smaller boats (20-25# lighter), he'd have some customers.

* Solo Tahiti Race

Philpott
10-14-2012, 10:49 AM
Here is one review of the norvane. I'll look into the windpilot
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f124/norvane-windvane-performance-reliability-review-63789.html

BobJ
10-14-2012, 10:57 AM
I apologize in advance for the gratuitous boobs on Peter's site. Maybe they're Tahitian or something.

ronnie simpson
10-19-2012, 08:25 PM
Jackie, I plan to install a Navik on my cal 2-27 this week. I'll let you know how it goes. Navik's are cheap, relatively available, lightweight, and get great reviews.

AlanH
12-20-2012, 11:52 PM
Jackie, I plan to install a Navik on my cal 2-27 this week. I'll let you know how it goes. Navik's are cheap, relatively available, lightweight, and get great reviews.

As of several years ago, the Navik was out of production.

That said, it's the only vane I've ever used and I love 'em. The only drawback is that it's extremely difficult to take the pendulum oar out of the water when the boat is moving, and essentially impossible to put it back in. Also, when installing/removing the pendulum oar anywhere but the dock, you run a risk of seriously mashed fingers.

Aside from that, it's a great product...light and durable and powerful.

Philpott
12-22-2012, 05:57 PM
Thank you, Alan and Ronnie. I have heard positive things about the Navik, also that parts are hit and miss to find. So, would it be possible to take the pendulum oar out of the water while hove to? Are other windvanes easier to manage? I think I would have to see this process first hand. Maybe some time in the next year?

AlanH
12-23-2012, 05:59 PM
yes, you can remove the pendulum oar when hove to. Turns out that "Mister Vee", a company that manufactures it's own windvane, which incorporates Jan Alkema's "upside down vane' concept into their product, makes a few spare parts for the Navik. The stinker...you have to have a good supply of them....is the little plastic linkages. They're stupid-easy to drop overboard.

I sometimes see Navik vanes for sale on ebay.

Ruben Gabriel used a Navik on his SHTP in 2008 with the Pearson Electra. Ed Ruszel used a Navik on his SHTP in his Yankee 30. I used a navik to cross to Hawaii on a Ranger 29 in 1998, and had a Navik on the SC27 in 2008. Navik vanes did a whole lot of the steering on two of the three LongPacs that I've done: INternational H-Boat, Santana 30-30 and Santa Cruz 27. Unfortunately, the vane hit something in the middle of the night, about 5 days out in 2008, which destroyed the pendulum rudder and made the vane useless for the rest of the 2008 SHTP. I wound up using an Autohelm 1000 for nearly the entire trip, until I had to switch to my backup ST2000 a day and a half away from Hanalei.

I know that the SS Yankee Dolphin, "Big Dot" was steered all the way to Hawaii in 1996 by a Navik vane.

If you have a small boat, the Navik is a really good vane.

Philpott
12-24-2012, 05:01 PM
If only I had a navik. I'll keep my fingers crossed. Thanks, Alan.

AlanH
12-25-2012, 10:40 PM
If only I had a navik. I'll keep my fingers crossed. Thanks, Alan.

To my mind, the 2-27 is right on the edge. Absolutely a Navik would steer it just fine. On the other hand, they're out of productions and parts are basically impossible to get. A 2-27 doesn't really "need" an ultralight vane.

A Monitor vane is much heavier, but then, you don't have an ultralight, in that 2-27, eh? The Monitor is produced locally and spare parts are all over the place. Monitor windvanes come up for sale all the time on Craigslist and Latitude 38. A monitor, even a used one, will cost a lot more than a Navik, if you can find one. Six of one, half a dozen of the other.

John Guzzwell used a Hydrovane on "Endangered Species" and really liked it, but it works differently from the Monitor...and the Navik.

Wylieguy
12-26-2012, 09:12 AM
I agree with Alan that a Monitor Wind Vane will cost more, but although I never buy any sailboat-related equipment with an eye to getting my money back, if I were to gamble on doing this, a used Monitor Vane just might be what I'd bet on. They're practically indestructible, the basic design hasn't changed, and parts are available in case something does break. And, someone is almost always looking for one or has one for sale. The emergency steering alternative is also appealing.
- Pat

Philpott
12-26-2012, 06:27 PM
"A Monitor vane is much heavier, but then, you don't have an ultralight, in that 2-27, eh?" Alan

Are you suggesting that my boat is fat? I didn't even know there was gear advertised on Latitude! Never scrolled down. And there is a Monitor for sale. Well, la di da. Thanks

AlanH
12-26-2012, 09:01 PM
"A Monitor vane is much heavier, but then, you don't have an ultralight, in that 2-27, eh?" Alan

Are you suggesting that my boat is fat? I didn't even know there was gear advertised on Latitude! Never scrolled down. And there is a Monitor for sale. Well, la di da. Thanks

Not, "fat" but maybe "comfortable"?? LOL

Check Craigslist. Use one of those "search craigslist" engines, like Tempest. I just did, and found about 5 Monitor Vanes and two Aries vanes for sale in California. Also, about 3 weeks ago, a Navik was for sale in the SF Bay area, but the advertisement has expired.

ronnie simpson
01-21-2013, 11:17 AM
Just installed the Navik last week on the 2-27 and then sailed it from Oregon to Bodega Bay. Breeze shut off, so waiting a few days before finishgin the trip to SF.

Navik's are stupid cheap used, compared to other wind vanes.
The thing absolutely kicked ass. I did not touch the tiller once, until the breeze died. The Navik steered me around Cape Mendocino at 6 knots, under bare poles, as it was blowing upper 30's out. The thing did brilliant. Yes, you can heave to and pull the oar out of the water. I agree, carry the black plastic linkages. I dropped one overboard when taking the oar out. Thankfully, I had 1 spare.

Considering that used Navik's are practically free and that spare parts ARE available, I would recommend a Navik. Having used Monitor, Fleming, Aries and now Navik, I would get a Navik for a small boat like a 2-27. And yes, that heavy POS will surf. 11.8 under reefed main, no headsail. but it was blowing close to 40.... The Navik seemed to generate no "load' anywhere in the system. I don't see what would ever cause it to break, save for hitting something in the water.

I would consider the Navik the ideal vane for your 2-27

good luck!

oh, quick edit, she was "swerving" quite a bit, but in her defense it was very breezy and an extremely difficult sea-state, even for an electric autopilot.

Philpott
01-21-2013, 04:57 PM
Okay, Ronnie. I"m sold. Now, who has a Navik for me? Quick! Before my yard bill comes!

Oldsailmaker
10-05-2014, 07:29 PM
I have been using a Norvane on a Tartan 30C with a tiller since 2010..... It has worked very well.....Previously had used a Aries on a 39 foot steel cutter for probably 70,000 nm..... It was great, but required some scraping out of the bearing sockets about every 20,000 nm or so...

Have not put any significant miles on the Norvane yet.....

The Norvane is very similiar to the Flemming that is popular in Aus and NZ....

markwesti
12-02-2014, 06:31 PM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Monitor-Wind-Vane-/271682370493?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item3f4187fbbd&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Monitor-Wind-Vane-/111533666692?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item19f7ecb184&vxp=mtr

I'd buy one of these , but then my boat would be to long for my slip . Maybe to much weight too . Or maybe not , a guy I know put one on his W 28 . The shot of the Monitor is at the bottom of this ad.
http://www.westsail.com/forsale/mangoe.htm

ronnie simpson
02-09-2015, 09:24 PM
Just dropping in on the forums and saw this old thread and my old reply from more than 2 years ago...

Thought i'd chime in with an update on the Navik wind vane, seeing as how I am thoroughly impressed with it and find the Navik to be a good deal for any solo sailor with a relatively small boat.

My Navik wind vane "Francois" steered my Cal 2-27 'MONGO' the majority of the way across the Pacific from Oregon down to San Diego and then over to Hawaii, Fiji and New Zealand. The performance of the wind vane in all conditions from a lot of port tack upwind sailing, port tack reaching, dead down wind, broad reaching on both tacks, etc was phenomenal. I did not sail with spinnaker with the wind vane engaged and found the performance to be best when heating it up to a 2-sail broad reach if it was light to moderate breeze, or going deep downwind with poled out jib if it was sufficiently windy. 'Francois' steered for days and days on end, oftentimes never being dis-engaged and never accidentally tacking or gybing. Halfway from Hawaii to Fiji, a pressed-in pin worked itself out and was temporarily fixed with a cotter pin, but this induced slop into the system and the performance suffered. A pressed-in replacement was installed in Fiji and 'Francois' once again performed flawlessly on the way to New Zealand. I found tiller pilots to still work better in 0-12 knots of breeze though. The jointed connectors are easy to lose over board if not experienced with the wind vane and the biggest fault is the non-kick-up rudder that requires you to hang overboard to install, making it best done in port before leaving or when hove-to.

Navik wind vanes are extremely light weight and in my opinion best suited to boats under about 30'. With their cheap cost if you can find one, and spare parts floating around, they can make a great investment either for primary self-steering or light weight back-up for an electronic autopilot.

Philpott
02-09-2015, 10:59 PM
Just dropping in on the forums and saw this old thread and my old reply from more than 2 years ago

Ronnie, Ronnie, Where. Are. You? After reading that old thread I went out and found a Navik, and it is still sitting on my patio chair in the backyard waiting to be installed. I had a bracket fabricated by Chris over at Svendsen's but have procrastinated all this time. Silly me. I have been meaning to strengthen Dura Mater's transom before installing it, but the idea of crawling into the lazerette and manipulating layers of epoxy-covered fiberglass cloth in there while in a state of physical contortion is just so off-putting that instead .... I notice that tiny breath of wind ... and I go out sailing instead. Every time.

Harrier
02-10-2015, 08:40 AM
Navik is a servo-pendulum vane. As such, when the vane flops over when the apparent wind goes to one side or the other (usually due to sea slop) the servo-oar swings over and two things occur: The movement and power of the oar is translated to the tiller, correcting the heading. As a result, the vane comes true to the wind for the heading which had been set, resuming a vertical stance. Since the servo-oar is free to swing, very little additional stress is transferred to the mountings/transom. So you should not need to "manipulate layers...while in a state of physical contortion".

I have thousands of miles of experience with servo-pendulum vanes on two 30 footers, but none with the Navik. Principles are the same. Main thing to remember is that the vane operates on the basis of apparent wind angle, trying to keep the angle which has been set. However, under circumstances such as surfing under spinnaker, as the speed of the boat surfs to a temporary higher speed, the apparent wind moves forward. The vane will attempt to correct for this and the result will be a zig-zag course downwind at best...or giant broach at worst. No big deal...experience will teach you how best to use the thing. I agree with Ronnie that the Navik would be a good match for your boat. Less weight hanging off astern is better. That's why Harrier has an Atoms vane instead of the stronger (and in my opinion, more effective) but much heavier Aries. And I use electric auto pilots to steer under spinnaker...fast operating ones!

The Smokester
02-10-2015, 05:47 PM
I haven't used this but have read that a small electric tiller pilot can be adapted to a wind vane servopendulum self steering system (like the Monitor or ...) to steer to a compass bearing and is touted to be an inexpensive and reliable method for downwind steering.

See, for example: http://www.selfsteer.com/products/monitor/autoPilot.php

This idea uses the tiller pilot to replace the wind vane and requires very little force or power from the tiller pilot.

I would be interested to hear people's experience with this.

ronnie simpson
02-10-2015, 07:08 PM
good explanation of a servo-pendulum gear by the general. he certainly has sailed enough miles to get a good grasp of how they work!

the gerneral is right jackie, there is no reason at all to strengthen your transom to add a Navik. my 2-27 yachted it's way from CA to new zealand and it's transom is stock.

smokester, SHTP vet brian boschma has been messing with and pioneering systems like you speak of, for years. figure out a way to get in touch with him and he can likely help steer you in the right direction, lame pun fully intended.

cheers.

hodgmo
02-11-2015, 05:16 AM
Some of Brian's ideas and products are described at

http://validator.stacieboschma.com/products/

One of the videos shows a small actuator motor linked to the Atoms wind vane on Frolic (Islander 36). It worked really well - used it when we motored during the trip back to CA last summer.

The Smokester
02-11-2015, 08:32 AM
...smokester, SHTP vet brian boschma has been messing with and pioneering systems like you speak of, for years. figure out a way to get in touch with him and he can likely help steer you in the right direction, lame pun fully intended.

cheers.


Some of Brian's ideas and products are described at

http://validator.stacieboschma.com/products/

One of the videos shows a small actuator motor linked to the Atoms wind vane on Frolic (Islander 36). It worked really well - used it when we motored during the trip back to CA last summer.

Thank you for steering me in the right direction.

sdpaine@cox.net
02-13-2015, 08:12 PM
Not that this will help all that much, but i have been using the same Hasler SP vane for over 35 years on three different boats. It is a horizontal pivot, so it is not quite a efficient as a vertical, but it is only about 20 lbs, works delightfully, and has proved to be very durable. I replaced the Micarta with Delrin parts for the Transpac, and I have hooked it to a small traveler that is in turn attached to a ST2000 for light air and down wind work. Wear and tear on the ST2000 is near nil as it only has to change the servo blade angle, the blade provides the power to tiller.

ronnie simpson
02-14-2015, 11:32 PM
Not that this will help all that much, but i have been using the same Hasler SP vane for over 35 years on three different boats. It is a horizontal pivot, so it is not quite a efficient as a vertical, but it is only about 20 lbs, works delightfully, and has proved to be very durable. I replaced the Micarta with Delrin parts for the Transpac, and I have hooked it to a small traveler that is in turn attached to a ST2000 for light air and down wind work. Wear and tear on the ST2000 is near nil as it only has to change the servo blade angle, the blade provides the power to tiller.

That should be a museum piece when the boat is retired.

The Smokester
02-15-2015, 11:48 AM
To take advantage of the vast experience here, I am wondering if there is a VMG penalty using a windvane. What little data I have seen--albeit somewhat dated--indicates that they average slightly better than an autopilot except on a beam reach where the data show they are roughly equal.

I have heard anecdotally that the drag and responsiveness of a windvane can produce significant performance penalties for racing. It surely must make a difference as to the type of windvane and boat, sail plan and point-of-sail. My boat is a Pacific Seacraft 37 which is fairly heavy and has a modified fin keel and skeg-hung rudder. Watching the windvane at work never ceases to mesmerize me so I would hate to think I would need to ditch it in favor of an autopilot.

But autopilots have become very sophisticated, sailing to the apparent or true wind, and using motion sensors and adaptive learning to account for boat motion. There is also the hybrid brian boschma.com approach mention below which greatly reduces the power consumption and noise of electrically-powered rudder control.

Most modern sss folk seem to be racing with autopilots...Why is that?

Harrier
02-15-2015, 12:49 PM
Smokester
Take a look at my previous post on this subject (#20). The singlehanded transpac is pretty much a downwind race after you get into the NE trades (400 or so miles out of the gate. That's when the chutes go up to take advantage of winds over your shoulder from behind. Withe chute up, my fin-keel, spade rudder boat will often surf up to 10 or 12 knots from a steady state speed of 6 kts. That's when the apparent wind shifts forward and the vane, which only sees apparent wind, thinks the boat has gone off course. It tries to correct the heading, but that's not what we want at that stage. So the vane users usually end up with a course of "S" turns, travelling farther that if they were to maintain their selected heading. My auto pilot can operate using the masthead wind sensor, but there is a delay in the system which defeats the forward movement of the apparent wind...usually. Or it can operate on a compass course just as easily, but that requires me to be watchful of wind shifts requiring sail trimming.

ronnie simpson
02-17-2015, 06:12 PM
smokester, Harrier is exactly right, couldn't have described the differences better myself. Another thing to think about is the drag in the water of the wind vane rudder/ paddle. On a PSC 37 this may be pretty minimal, but even .1 knots of boat speed adds up to about 40 miles over the course of 16-18 days or so, which is your likely pace. at 6 knots VMG, you're looking at 7 hours, just assuming .1 knot difference which is conservative. when i sailed the race in 2012, the top 5 boats in my division corrected out within 12 hours... 7 hours would have dropped me from first to fourth in class. something to think about if placing well in the race is a priority for you.

wind vanes are absolutely phenomenal from a power conservation/ reliability standpoint and on my recent cruise to New Zealand, the wind vane was the single biggest 'enabler' in allowing me to complete long solo journeys... from a racing/ performance stand point however, a good modern electric AP will reign superior. assuming you have the $$$ to purchase and power budget to run the AP, but that's two entirely different conversations. in a perfect world, a boat like yours would likely have a solid AP and a wind vane for back up/ cruising/ delivery home. sort of like sat phone vs ssb. in the sense of an SHTP, it's often best to have both if resources allow.

ps - sailing downwind in light air with a wind vane blows, and youre likely to see those conditions on a transpac...

good luck mate

sdpaine@cox.net
02-21-2015, 10:17 AM
Respectfully, I would like to disagree a bit with Mr. Simpson above. Pretty much like everyone else who uses self-steering of a sort, I have wondered about the effects of the drag of a servo blade. I am using an older Hasler SP unit (one of the very first servo-blade units made) so it is a relevant issue to me. So, to sort it out I ran the numbers of my boat and blade through the drag equation (F = 0.5 C ρ A V2) . My blade extends about 2 feet under water, has a chord of 6", and is a NACA 0010 section. Plugging in the constants etc. the results indicate that at 4 knots the force needed to propel the blade through the water is .67 lbs., and at 6 knots it rises to 1.48 lbs. Using the SailPowerCalc website I found that the force generated by my rig (main and 120%) at 9 kn of wind (about my 4 kn range) while beating is 240 lbs of forward drive. So the .67 lbs. of drag represents about .3% of the force driving the boat forward. A .3% reduction of speed represents a loss of .012 kn, not .1 kn. Downwind the drive forces will be much larger due to the force vectors for the sails aligning more directly with the boats heading and making the loss of drive and even smaller percentage. At 6 knots (12 knots or so with a 100%) the drive force increases to 426 lbs. and the servo drag remains at about .3% of the drive force. This results in a reduction of .018 kn. These numbers are squishy for certain, but likely they are accurate enough to get a reasonable picture of the magnitude of the forces at play.

Are there compensatory advantages to a vane then that might compensate for the small speed loss when using the servo-blade to move the tiller/wheel? No argument that reaching and downwind/light air work require an electric autopilot for efficiency. My ST2000 drops from a 1.8 amp draw to a .5 amp draw when I change it form direct tiller drive to the servo-blade drive in moderate air. This saves over 24 amps per day and eliminates the need for a 40 watt solar panel, saving about 12 lbs. The weight of the fuel required to charge that 24 amps over the course of a Transpac would be a good deal more. The wear and tear on the autopilot is drastically reduced as it only needs to change the angle of the servo-blade (a finger tip operation), making it unnecessary to carry multiple spares as suggested by so many (one of last years entries went through three coming down from Washington). There is a lower probability of needing to deal with the possible problems associated with a steering failure (broaches, sail damage etc.). Upwind a vane is generally considered more efficient that a compass driven unit as it responds to every wind shift. And there is the safety factor to consider. If all the electronic devices fail, or if there is not enough sun to recharge, the boat will still quite happily sail in any direction you choose, although with a bit less efficiency (as has happened in the Transpac).

I am not arguing that vanes are the best way to go, only that they represent a very real and competitive alternative to using electric autopilots exclusively. When the autopilot can be linked to the servo-blade for course correction in those conditions where a vane is less effective, a very flexible and efficient system is created. Further, the system has the additional advantage of providing a reliable alternative for steering the boat in the event of serious mishap (some designs can act as the emergency rudder as the General has demonstrated).

One final note. My boat is small and lively and I had difficulty getting the vane to steer reasonably, especially on a reach or downwind. The vane would correct, the boat would over-steer, the vane would over correct the over-steer etc. By setting up the tiller lines with the option of 1, 2 or 3 part purchase (very easy to switch from one to the other) I was able to dampen the course correction down, slow the boats response time which allowed the vane to react in time with the boats change in heading. The result was much straighter tracking and far fewer 'S' turns. While not a par with the ST2000, it creates a track that is quite acceptable for coastal cruising and day sailing without any power drain.

Harrier
02-21-2015, 11:07 AM
Good comments, Mr. Paine
One more minor addition that I might add: The servo pendulum vanes that I have used, seem to work fine with a "normal" distance of 18 inches from tiller post to steering lines attachment point on the tiller. However, I found that there are times when this tiller attachment point could stand a change under certain conditions. If the attachment distance were shortened, the rudder would achieve a greater steering angle as the lines from the pendulum pulled the tiller over. Conversely, if less rudder swing were desired, the tiller attachment point could be moved farther from the rudder post. Might be better in lite air? Anyway, experimentation will possibly improve one's experience with the vane steering. I added a 12" piece of genoa track to my tiller, with the steering lines led to a "car" which could be moved fore and aft on the tiller. Thus, I am able to vary the attachment in an attempt to improve my vane's performance in varying wind and sea conditions. This is sort of "guilding the lily", perhaps, but it's fun to experiment. In another vein, pun intended, I do not feel that servo pendulum vanes and wheel steering are very compatible. The vane might only provide 6 inches of movement P & S at the tiller, which will give the rudder a good swing. Turning the wheel attachment drum 6 inches along its circumference will not swing the rudder nearly as far. It will generally steer fine up wind, but "run out of rudder" when used downwind. This may not be a problem with all boats, but I know it is with many wheel steering installations.

ronnie simpson
02-24-2015, 02:12 PM
good comments sdpaine. and nice math/ equations/ science to flush out the heresay. I still have a hard time believing the vane's drag only slows the boat down .012 knots. after a lot of sailing on small boats with wind vanes and without, i personally believe it's more than that but i don't have the math or science to back that up. we will respectfully disagree. without differing opinions, this thread/ conversation would be boring.

you are absolutely right though about the weight of the panel/ weight of fuel/ electricity budget, etc. it's the million dollar question on small boats and small budgets. in 2012 SHTP, Ruben and I both left on Moore's and only had solar for charging. we had a cloudy year and ended up mostly hand steering to hawaii which was f'ing miserable, and a Navik would have been really sweet to have on the transom!

horses for courses, we all set up our boats how we see fit, but this is a good discussion. thanks for the input.

Harrier
02-24-2015, 04:06 PM
OK. So the drag of whatever a windvane appendage amounts to, it is still more than NO DRAG. You just decide whether putting up with the drag is worth the benefit of less electricity needed to accomplish the mission. I think I stopped using the Atoms vane around my 3rd or 4th SHTP. Simply decided the auto pilot does a better job on that race in my boat. And the vane shades my stern panels more than I'd like. In so doing, I laid myself open to a potential severe problem in the event of limited solar power and engine failure. So I carry a small gasoline powered generator for peace of mind. Have used it, but never really had to. Life involves choices at every level, it seems,

AlanH
02-25-2015, 01:56 PM
Jackie, go bolt that thing to the transom and learn how to use it! If you're going to sail more distance than your battery can run your autopilot, then have spare parts for the Navik.

Philpott
02-25-2015, 07:09 PM
Jackie, go bolt that thing to the transom and learn how to use it! If you're going to sail more distance than your battery can run your autopilot, then have spare parts for the Navik.

Come up and help me bolt it on, then we can go out and practice. I want to have it in place for the Half Moon Bay race and certainly for Drakes Bay (cuz it's so far away!).

AlanH
02-25-2015, 11:24 PM
Come up and help me bolt it on, then we can go out and practice. I want to have it in place for the Half Moon Bay race and certainly for Drakes Bay (cuz it's so far away!).

Hmmm...tempting. Let me look at my calendar...

DaveH
02-26-2015, 09:24 AM
For what its worth, it actually is fairly easy to find spare Navik parts... these guys are in Holland, but super easy to work with.
they are not OEM parts, but they have replicated them and generally have inventory on all the fiddly little bits.

http://windvaneselfsteering.com/content/navik-spare-parts

best,
DH

BobJ
02-26-2015, 10:37 AM
Dave, thanks for the reminder about Mister Vee. Has anyone heard anything about their "Y&B" windvane? It sounds robust enough for my boat but it's half the weight of the Monitor due to using modern materials. I just can't put 55# on Rags' transom - I'd need a sissy bar - 24# would be okay though.

They also sell a "headless" version to use with a tillerpilot, which would work during surfing sessions.
.

Philpott
02-26-2015, 10:43 AM
For what its worth, it actually is fairly easy to find spare Navik parts... these guys are in Holland, but super easy to work with.
they are not OEM parts, but they have replicated them and generally have inventory on all the fiddly little bits. http://windvaneselfsteering.com/content/navik-spare-parts (http://windvaneselfsteering.com/content/navik-spare-ts)
best,DH

Actually, my experience with Mr Vee was not so helpful. Someone offered to give me a Navik a couple of years ago, but it was missing a paddle. I contacted Mr Vee and he told me that it was not cost effective for him to make only a small batch of one or two. My understanding is that paddles tend to go missing offshore, and it would definitely be a good idea to have one or even two spares. I'm sure a paddle could be fabricated by people who know how to do that sort of thing (Greg Nelsen, Chris @ Svendsen's) but Mr Vee wasn't interested in selling only one or two. And by the way, if someone needs a wheel adapter for his/her Navik, one came with my Navik when I bought it. It has never been used and is in great shape.

BobJ
02-26-2015, 11:03 AM
Yes, in fact they do a run of windvane systems just once a year. The farther ahead you order, the larger the discount.

But spare parts like the paddles/blades should be available year-round. It does make me think about putting my eggs in their basket.

DaveH
02-26-2015, 11:48 AM
Hi Jackie -
good to know. I had nothing but good service, but I was really only needing spares of the fiddly bits [I gave all mine to Ronnie on his way to SoCal] and the wind vane blade blade.
The paddle assembly is really an integral part of the vane, and has a moderately fussy internal mechanism for the trim tab. I'd agree its a moderately involved project to replicate.

Also, not sure the paddle assembly on the Navik really constitutes a spare part that you would carry with you? at that point you are literally hauling around half of the unit.
I can certainly see losing the Wind Vane or even the turret offshore while assembling or adjusting [its happened], or to a misguided bird perching on it, but I'm not sure I see how you would lose the Paddle short of hitting something or a really curious shark...

DH

Gamayun
02-26-2015, 02:18 PM
Come up and help me bolt it on, then we can go out and practice. I want to have it in place for the Half Moon Bay race and certainly for Drakes Bay (cuz it's so far away!).

Let me know if you need an extra hand! I can stand around and hold stuff and try to look like I know what you're doing ;-)

AlanH
03-03-2015, 02:10 PM
You absolutely could lose the paddle overboard, offshore. I always had a bit of line on mine, tied to a stern rail or something, as insurance.

When I sold Ankle Biter in Hawaii, the buyer wanted the "top half" of the Navik, so I gave it to him. The paddle and "bottom half" must have hit something in the water as it completely self destructed about 6 days out. Making a "bottom half" of the vane is not a project for the faint of heart and it would almost certainly cost a lot of boat bucks. It literally is half the vane.

The Smokester
03-04-2015, 11:06 AM
Some of Brian's ideas and products are described at

http://validator.stacieboschma.com/products/

One of the videos shows a small actuator motor linked to the Atoms wind vane on Frolic (Islander 36). It worked really well - used it when we motored during the trip back to CA last summer.

Thanks to all who responded to my earlier question about racing with windvanes.

I ordered one of Brian's controller/actuator sets for installation on my Monitor...Due to be delivered in early March. My intention is to collect performance data under sail on the three ways I will have to steer my boat: Below decks autopilot, windvane/actuator combo and pure windvane. Suggestions on what measurements to make would be greatly appreciated.

brianb
03-04-2015, 06:53 PM
Thanks to all who responded to my earlier question about racing with windvanes.

I ordered one of Brian's controller/actuator sets for installation on my Monitor...Due to be delivered in early March. My intention is to collect performance data under sail on the three ways I will have to steer my boat: Below decks autopilot, windvane/actuator combo and pure windvane. Suggestions on what measurements to make would be greatly appreciated.

With a little prodding I could be convinced to add a little data acquisition module, temporarily, to the AP controller and you could gather course holding data, rate of turn, roll, pitch,...........wirelessly below deck on a PC. Data would be relayed every 1/10 sec.
Brian

brianb
06-12-2015, 11:23 PM
Does anyone have, or know of an Aries windvane ? I need to get a few photos of one on a boat or in a garage.
Thanks,
Brian