Walked down E Dock Sunday morning to see whether Bob was awake. What was this? No Bob! Seems someone collected him Saturday night and wouldn't let him drive home. I have never. Repeat: NEVER seen a Bob Boat so disheveled.
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Walked down E Dock Sunday morning to see whether Bob was awake. What was this? No Bob! Seems someone collected him Saturday night and wouldn't let him drive home. I have never. Repeat: NEVER seen a Bob Boat so disheveled.
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You DID post it! She looked much better by the end of the day.
I'm still waiting on autopilot parts so I finished this project instead. Plumber: "In our business, a flush beats a full house."
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What's the sensor for?
To let the doctor know if you've been eating enough fiber.
The setting: Plumber has his arm down in a pipe as far as he can reach. Looks up at me and says, “Well you know Tom, Your shit’s our bread and butter.”
Back to autopilots (quickly!) Based on its specs I really wanted this DD15 direct-drive, but the installation issues are causing me to return it. I'd have to rebuild the back of the boat for it to fit. Instead, Eric Steinberg has a new B&G T2 waiting for me. The current plan is to mount the T2 inverted on the bottom of the existing aluminum shelf and the old Robertson drive on top (it can't be inverted). Phil at PYI suggests that both can be attached to the same tiller arm. If not, I'll install two arms.
The existing Simrad AP42N (with its own compass and controller) and Robertson drive would be separate from the new H5000 AP and T2 drive, via quick-release pins on the tiller arm. This is based on Jim Quanci's input that when it comes to autopilots, you don't want all your eggs in one basket. Example: A failure in the wind sensor's PCB (at the top of the mast) can take down the whole B&G system, including the autopilot.
The old bronze tiller arm is a piece of work, eh? It was bored to 2-3/4" when the rudder shaft is only 2-5/8" - thus the rubber shims. Structurally it's better than it looks - an internal bolt passes through the carbon post. It was "really fun" to remove it for measurement. The old tiller arm might have to get me to Drake's Bay and back, then it will become a paperweight.
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On keeping the key slot dry... let me suggest you get rid of the key completely. Simple power and start buttons (two wires to each switch) is simple and bulletproof. The wires and connectors on the back of these key switches makes "debugging" complicated... been on a few boats where they key switch died at inopportune times and sorting out how to start the engine took "too long". Its not like a car where the key is about theft...
Not to mention what Yanmar charges for a new switch. I'll put this on the list.
I bought a new switch for my Yanmar, my panel is below, but the switch fell apart one day when I was troubleshooting a starting issue.
The key and the contacts are totally separate; the key part twists the switch; the switch is fairly well potted, and one Yanmar key will start most Yanmar engines.
I think you could pressure wash the key slot and the contacts would still remain dry.