Rudder Post and Stuffing Box

[brianb]

Uhhhh......maybe, it ain't pretty. I could shoot a few. It kind of looks like a big surfboard with a cassette. Oh, think of the foiling centerboard on the AC72's, yeah, it kind of looks like that !

[brianb]

In 1997 a rebuilt Universal 2-12 engine was installed on Dura Mater. Noted is "repack shaft log with drip-free". I've read about "dripless" stuffing boxes. Then, in 2008, a local yard "removed hose clamps (4) on shaft log and cleaned shaft log corrosion". Can anyone guess what this means (you are not being graded here)?

I just had my drip less replaced on Red Sky. The drip less depends on two precise surfaces to form a seal (I believe it is called a DSS). I believe those surfaces are precisely machined aluminum, one spins with the motor shaft, the other is stationary. The rubber boot provides compression of the two surfaces as well as forming the shaft tube seal. So, if the surface of these two precise plates get corroded they would tend to leak a bit. My drip less was pretty worn as it was ten years old with a lot of miles. The surfaces were still not leaking but they were getting thin so I had it all replaced while the boat was high and dry (1 of 3 yard trips in 8 months - SHTP + yard error + my stupidity = $$'s). My guess is the corrosion cleaned up is those two mating surfaces. If the drip-less was installed in 1997 and serviced in 2008 it is way past the manufacturers service life, which I believe it 10 years. That said, it might be fine if the engine doesn't have a lot of time on it. The thing to do is measure the thickness of those mating plates and then check with a yard or the manuf. to see if they are in spec. I think the yard guys might just say, "replace", given the age. I seem to recall the cost was about $300 to redo mine.

BB

[Philpott]

Thanks, Brian. I have read some strong opinions about dripless, and would not have chosen it myself. Too many imponderables. I drove over to the yard yesterday and the yard manager,Karl, assured me that he checked my rudder post when he replaced the cutlass bearing. While that is reassuring, I do want to know what to look for, which is why I'm going to sail over to visit Ed Ruszels on Flicka on Saturday in brickyard Cove. If anyone else is in the vicinity, come on over and share info. I'm bringing pound cake. I also need to figure out spinnaker rigging. Bring what ya got or come for the cake.

[glennp]

Interesting comments about stainless rudders failing. Iam not sure a yard guy can adequately 'check' the rudder for offshore work unless they physically go into the rudder itself, or do an xray or ultrasound of some sort. stainless dissolves through anaerobic corrosion inside the rudder material where you cant see it or mechanically beat on it. sometimes in less than a year from new, if the part gets no oxygen. once the boat starts working in a sea way, the stainless weakened by corrosion gets subjected to overwhelming torsional forces and general banging around until it breaks off wherever the corrosion has reduced the material - usually hidden away inside where you cant see it, then the good part of th shaft flails away at the hull until falling off and/or worst case, breaching the hull below the water line area near the rudder shaft. Bronze on the other hand lasts forever - well 45 years in my boat. I pulled the rudder and replaced the shaft as a pre caution several years ago, and found the old shaft was shinny and new - no corrosion or stress lines whatsoever, 45 years after being laid up in the factory.

I would like to ask-> what is the emergency rudder 'Cassette' others have mentioned earlier in this thread?? some kind of pivot device i am guessing??? thanks!

[Wylieguy]

Glen, The cassette is sort of an external centerboard slot that's mounted to the transom and swivels. The rudder blade (foil) is inserted and shoved down until it locks/stops. As you know, it's almost impossible to hold a rudder blade down while trying to get the pintles connected. Attaching (some folks leave it mounted) a cassette is easier because there's nothing dragging in the water. Then lowering the foil into the cassette is lots easier. On my boat steering is via high tech line hooked to the cassette and tiller using turning blocks on the transom.

My belief is that the foil should represent at least 2/3s of the area as the original rudder and be nearly as deep. I also lean toward a "fatter" foil for more "bite" in the water. I figure that with the ER deployed I'm in the "get home safe" mode rather than beat Greg Nelson mode (which I can't do anyway!).

I also carry a 2" dowel long enough to shove the original rudder stock down and out of the boat. If the original rudder flops around or the stock bends instead of breaking, I don't need a "Bismark" rudder steering me around in circles while the I fight the ER trying to go straight.