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Thread: Interested in a boat for 2018 TransPac

  1. #491
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    Sep 2007
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    He did get a new PHRF certificate. Evidently NorCal PHRF believes the weight of an outboard has less than a 3 sec/mile effect on an Olson 30's observed performance.

    In proportionate weight, removing the engine from your Westsail might be similar. Why don't you give it a shot and report back with the rating effect?

  2. #492
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    May 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobJ View Post
    He did get a new PHRF certificate. Evidently NorCal PHRF believes the weight of an outboard has less than a 3 sec/mile effect on an Olson 30's observed performance.

    In proportionate weight, removing the engine from your Westsail might be similar. Why don't you give it a shot and report back with the rating effect?
    Well, I’ll check with ncphrf before I do it, but yeah proportionally it’s probably about the same. I wonder why there is even a O30 OB rating? Maybe it actually means “Objectionable Behavior”. Poor old Eric, loading up Polar Bear with compensating weight for no reason at all.

  3. #493
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    Discovery Bay, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobJ View Post
    Rags' electric pump is one of these:

    https://www.westmarine.com/buy/rule-...28?recordNum=6

    The trick is I have a check valve just above the pump. Even though the hose is long and full of water, it doesn't run back into the bilge, which stays almost dry.

    They only make the check valves for larger hoses, so you need to get the higher-capacity pump (like the 27S) to fit a larger outlet hose. Here's the check valve I have:
    https://www.westmarine.com/buy/boswo...CABEgLxmfD_BwE
    Bob,
    You inspired me to look more closely at my bilge pump situation. I have a increasingly leaky shaft seal and after dorking around with an old Whale supersub I had installed I realized it would no longer work in auto mode. Decided to buy one 800 GPM automatic Rule auto and a second 800 GPM non-auto. I have each plumbed separately to deck level thruhulls with a new three way switch for the auto pump. They work great. Just one point, the instructions on the 800 GPM unit specifically state no external check valve should be installed. It appears there is an internal check valve in the pump if I read the mfg. data correctly. This seems to be borne out by the limited backflow when the pump is turned off. Meanwhile I am hauling out in early April to deal with the seal.

  4. #494
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    907

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    Quote Originally Posted by brianb View Post
    Dear Jammotop,

    Hey, a 100 watts is light. Better make it 200 w. See Adrian's notes on his experience. 200 watts min. Suggest using single crystal cells, not polycrystraline as they will be larger for the same size. Flex panels are, as far as I know, all polycrystaline , they look nice however.

    Brian
    Thanks Brian, great specific advice! Just wondering ... is there a shop in the Bay where I can check out solar panels and MPPT and stuff like that? Or is it all online ...

  5. #495
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Arnold, CA
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    586

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    I think the greater determining factor is the drag that is reduced when an inboard engine and namely its appendages are removed.
    Nightmare originally took a -3 second hit for the change from inboard to an outboard.

    The outboard and bracket weigh about 65-70# and 4 gallons of fuel 25#

    Even if I were required to carry an extra 100#, I don't think it would hurt my performance. Especially after adding supplies for SHTP.

  6. #496
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    Alameda CA
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    497

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    Quote Originally Posted by jamottep View Post
    ... is there a shop in the Bay where I can check out solar panels and MPPT and stuff like that? Or is it all online ...
    I don't personally know of a "marine power emporium" in the Bay Area, but I do have some suggestions:
    1. get in touch with Bruce Schwab - former buglighter and Vendee veteran. https://www.bruceschwab.com/. He is in the business of selling this stuff, and no, it's not bargain basement, but his advice is rock solid and he will not steer you wrong.
    2. Bruce often works in concert with Liem at LTD Marine. Liem is the owner, and LTD primarily deals with installation and wiring. He has a wealth of knowledge, you just need to ask. (510) 523-2521
    3. Ryan's Marine Electrical Service - Ryan is primarily in the business of installation and maintenance, but I have found him approachable and reasonable 510-385-3842

    Start with Bruce for the parts and plan.
    Leim and Ryan are really more about the execution if you find you need help.

    DH

  7. #497
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    54

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    How is section 2.1.2 interpreted? Specifically the statement that the windows are to be at least as strong as the surrounding superstructure? Minimum of ??" thick plexiglass?

  8. #498
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    May 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveH View Post
    1. get in touch with Bruce Schwab - former buglighter and Vendee veteran. https://www.bruceschwab.com/. He is in the business of selling this stuff, and no, it's not bargain basement, but his advice is rock solid and he will not steer you wrong.
    Thank you ... I contacted Bruce.

    In the meantime I've discovered that generators don't all cost a thousand grand. I already have an AC charger (max 7.2 A, which isn't much, but should do for backup). I did learn that for my use it's probably best to go with an inverter generator, which unfortunately is usually twice as many $.

    Tentative plan: alternate which battery is charged/used every day.

    1. During the day: charge with existing 100 W solar panel setup;
    2. During the night: finish charging with generator, as necessary.

    My battery charger needs 130 watt. Any small generator could charge one half full battery on half a gallon. That means I could charge for 5 days with 2.5 gallons. Mmmh, this is not as unreasonable as I thought at first. The fuel container would be in the cockpit and that's probably where the charger would be when it runs too. I wonder if these work well when heeling 25 degrees.

    I'm also considering swapping the PWM charge controller with a MPPT, which may get me a little more out of the panel, as well as giving me a backup in case the controller fails.

    Choices choices choices ... And I need to go sailing ...

  9. #499
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    May 2015
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    907

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    Quote Originally Posted by jamottep View Post
    I wonder if these work well when heeling 25 degrees.
    I've now heard 3 different stories that at least some don't.

  10. #500
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Santa Rosa
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    644

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    In the 2010 TansPac we used Gordie's old l(paint spotted, dented, well-used) Honda generator bolted fore and aft in the starboard cockpit locker (it's isolated from the interior). It would cut out on severe "starboard" heels, but started right up again. We considered unbolting it and setting it transversely on the cockpit sole, but after a day or two got used to pulling the cord every once in a while. We took 5 gallons of gas, but only burned maybe 2+ gallons? The thing ran forever. We ran it about 20/30 minutes almost every day for 2 weeks. Very little sun that trip! The extra gas rode home in jerry cans in the cockpit on Matson.

    Since I began sailing in 1971, all my boats have had gas engines (Atomic 4/outboard). I respect gas and am very careful and have never had a negative indecent. Coming back from Catalina in the old Metropolitan YC races we carried 30 gallons in cans on deck and used almost all of it before easing into Santa Cruz, for instance. That's a lot of re-filling at sea from 2.5 gallon cans. Buy an oversized funnel and be conservative when pouring - don't overfill whatever tank your filling. Good idea to put your hatch boards in when filling in the cockpit, especially if your cockpit is confined.

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