Page 15 of 68 FirstFirst ... 51112131415161718192565 ... LastLast
Results 141 to 150 of 673

Thread: Interested in a boat for 2018 TransPac

  1. #141
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Humboldt Bay
    Posts
    135

    Default

    ...an hairline crack between the hull and keel (and another one in front).
    +1 what Wylie said. Definitely check the keel bolts. Any crack below the water line would make me nervous.
    Chances are that she would probably make to Hawaii, but why take chances.

    Edit: It's not uncommon to see these kind of cracks and it is most likely just cosmetic. Just do a further investigation.
    Last edited by Steevee; 02-13-2017 at 09:47 AM.

  2. #142
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,688

    Default

    With the caveat that none of us are surveyors, I'll agree with Steevee. Seeing a hairline crack at the keel-to-sump (or hull) joint is not that unusual, especially as the bottom paint gets thin. Just walk around a yard and look at some boats. The time to get concerned is if there's movement. With the boat blocked up, if you can grab the keel and move it side-to-side, it's a problem. This is not my opinion - it's what yard managers have told me.

    I have Rags' keel bolts torqued to factory spec's every 2-3 years. The last time it was a harder to get them tight. Next haul-out we'll remove each nut and inspect everything, and replace the washers with a larger diameter.

  3. #143
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    907

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Steevee View Post
    Edit: It's not uncommon to see these kind of cracks and it is most likely just cosmetic. Just do a further investigation.
    According to the previous owner that's what is is. I'll check the bolts again but when we looked at them everything was looking good. Certainly no rust. No survey either. There was no evidence of damage to the keel. I google'd Olson 30 keel bolt torque and couldn't find a final answer on that topic.

    http://www.olson30.org/forum/topic/keel-bold-nut/

    I'll wiggle the keel next time I hoist the boat.

  4. #144
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Santa Rosa
    Posts
    644

    Default

    The reason to use a marine surveyor is that person is trained (okay, I know just about anyone can hang out a "Survey" sign - but I can suggest a good one) to not only take a look, but test. For instance, a deck or hull can "look good" but a surveyor with a hammer might find soft spots, even where the surface seems solid. I suggest that just "looking" at the keel bolts isn't enough. If nothing else, put a wrench on the bolts and see if you can move them. If so, get a pro to address the issue.

  5. #145
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    577

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jamottep View Post
    I google'd Olson 30 keel bolt torque and couldn't find a final answer.
    I could be wrong about this, but I believe the proper torque is determined by the bolt diameter. It should be possible to look it up in a general hardware reference. That's what I did a few years back. Maybe I went a touch low on the torque because after all I was squeezing down on fiberglass, not steel.
    Max

  6. #146
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    907

    Default

    There isn't so much happening these days. I have been buying things here and there.

    I went to the boat today. A few things I did:

    1. Emptied the bilge again and the dehumidifier bucket;
    2. Scraped the keel botl/nuts as much as I could with the brush I had so I could take good pictures. More on that ...
    3. Installed the second battery. It seemed to work.
    4. Followed cables, got lost and moved onto something else.
    5. Installed fed. reqs. placards.
    6. Replaced a strap of velcro hook, which helps hold the nav. table dodger in place.
    7. Met a few pleasant folks.
    8. Took pictures for the insurance self-survey.
    9. Gave all turnbuckles a twist and they moved softly.
    10. Put the new flares in the "distress signal" box.

    I think that's it ... not much when I look at the list for 5 hrs spent there. Next time I go there I think I'll want to start playing with my laptop, the instruments and the auto-tiller.

  7. #147
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    907

    Default

    About the keel ... here's what I've observed:

    1. The forward bottom tip of the keel was repaired.
    2. There is a small crack at the front and a dip at the back, in addition to the hairline crack on the starboard side.
    3. The bolt/nuts seem to have been epoxied in place (my guess on the epoxy). See attached picture. So I can't give them a turn and check torque, not without making them free.
    4. Folks at the yard (sailors) had a look at the keel and said all is good ... just need gel coat work if I insist. Someone went inside and checked the nuts and thought it looked good (Really? Are nuts epoxied in like that all the time).
    5. One guy also said the keel on the Olson 30 is on a stubby, and there is no crack at the stubby mark.
    6. Ah the joy of boat ownership: what will fail next?

    Name:  KeelBotlNut.jpg
Views: 695
Size:  1.66 MB

  8. #148
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,688

    Default

    The one odd nut is, well, odd. But there was probably a reason for it. Anyway, if the keel was gonna fall off it would have done it in the last Pacific Cup.

    The Olson 30 is a sweet-sailing boat. Look for every opportunity to just get out and sail it, before this other stuff psyches you out.

  9. #149
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    907

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobJ View Post
    Look for every opportunity to just get out and sail it, before this other stuff psyches you out.
    Yep, as soon as the channel clears ...

    I visited the boat again today and mostly spent my time connecting a laptop to the instruments and tried to make "that" work. Well ... not much success. Here's what I did:

    1. Turned instruments on, which includes an NMEA bus and Actisense USB connector;
    2. Plugged the USB connector into the laptop;
    3. Popped the Actisense NMEA reader and after a while figured a way to get it to read (just had to select proper baud rate).

    The reader showed some data (NMEA 0183, which is weird because I think the instruments are recent), probably coming from the wind vane and hull transducer (speed, depth, temp). There are two compasses too but I don't know if they make it to the NMEA bus. There's also the AIS from the VHF, which I didn't try.

    The big question is how does this all integrate nicely into one piece of SW. Is there a piece of SW that does it all out there? OpenSource? I tried OpenCpn but I couldn't figure that part out. The SW should probably also take in weather forecast.

    Disclaimer: I certainly wasn't methodical ... I just tried to "plug and play" and I didn't get very far ...

    Good find: with the rain I discovered a leak at the stern hatch hinges (small bolt/nut). And now I get to learn about using sealants. My research suggests that I should go the way of butyl tape. And these guys sell some that's supposedly been tested (and of course all the rest is not good enough). Wow ... $50 for two rolls ...
    http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

    Oh, and I signed up for the dry storage wait list in Santa Cruz, which happens to be about 5 years long (I'm #29 or so). It costs $100 and being that I'm down to 11.x months I can't see me stay there.

  10. #150
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Arnold, CA
    Posts
    586

    Default

    The butyl tape from mainesail works well and the two rolls goes a long way. 're-tighten everything later as the tape compresses.
    3M 4200 is good for bedding hardware too. My biggest complaint is the stuff sets up under the cap and I wind up poking holes in the tube to get more out later.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •