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Thread: Pelagic control head installation

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Posts
    1,263

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    Oh boy. Now I done it. I asked Brian for a "forward" facing control head. If I put it in a washboard, it'll be an "aft" facing control head. OK, I think I need to make a little box for the front of the transom and do like Jackie has. Well, except that my cover will be brown because brown is manly don'tchaknow?

    Thanks, team, for the clarification. I need to rewire the whole system up to my electrical system anyway.
    S-2 7.9: "Wildcat of Loch Awe"
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    5

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    Now, here is an another question,
    I purchased this system this year and now starts installing.
    The tiller actuator instllation, is the distance has to be exactly 18” from rudder axis to tiller pin?
    It could be off a little bit or has to be exact 18”? My tiller drops pretty steep and has to use bracket and have to make a mount to mount the bracket on tiller.
    Last edited by cpt_757; 04-15-2018 at 09:14 AM. Reason: Typo

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    2,201

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    Quote Originally Posted by cpt_757 View Post
    Now, here is an another question,
    I purchased this system this year and now starts installing.
    The tiller actuator instllation, is the distance has to be exactly 18” from rudder axis to tiller pin?
    It could be off a little bit or has to be exact 18”? My tiller drops pretty steep and has to use bracket and have to make a mount to mount the bracket on tiller.
    Under the lavender cover (cleverly made for me by Synthia) is the Pelagic control head itself. There was already a hole there for some distant dysfunctional electronic device, so it seemed a good spot for the control head mount. The brains of the unit are deep in the starboard bowels of Dura Mater, on the backside of the companionway, where all the rest of the electronics rest. Crawling into the transom gains access to all that magic. If you dare.

    Maybe this photo will help. The tiny brown and white wires are meant to connect with my wind instruments, which are telltales, and not very responsive.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by Philpott; 04-15-2018 at 11:54 AM.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    235

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    Harrier's control "box" is mounted on the aft facing vertical panel of the bridge deck. As with other nearby AP control devices, I can manipulate it while standing below, as well as from most anywhere in the cockpit forward of my traveler track, which is mid cockpit.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    2,201

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    Quote Originally Posted by Harrier View Post
    Harrier's control "box" is mounted on the aft facing vertical panel of the bridge deck. As with other nearby AP control devices, I can manipulate it while standing below, as well as from most anywhere in the cockpit forward of my traveler track, which is mid cockpit.
    As I recall, Sir, the only consideration was that you might hit it with beer cans when you throw the empties out of the cabin. That might affect the warranty.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Posts
    1

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    Hi. I'm refitting my Westsail 28 and have a shiny new Pelagic autopilot with spares to install. The boat didn't even have a compass when I bought her, so I'm working with a clean slate. I want to be able to hook up the autopilot to the N2K system to feed wind data to it so I bought an Actisense NGW-1 0183 to N2K converter. Here's the question: Is there someone on the forum that knows what color of wires to hook up between the motor control unit and the Actisense NGW-1? The manuals for each fall short of making it clear enough for me to want to just start hooking wires up. Maybe someone on the forum has this or similar setup or knows a guy who's got a guy.

    Thanks!
    Byron
    Westsail28

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Posts
    1,263

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    OK everything is finally mounted properly. The Wildcat has a new tiller, which has an actual pin in it instead of a little bolt head. There's a switch box and an inline fuse. I bought a switch where I can actually tell if the thing is ON or OFF this time. OK, so here we go. Actual Testing. It only took 18 months.
    S-2 7.9: "Wildcat of Loch Awe"
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Posts
    1,263

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    A-a-a-annnnnd.... if I hold down the "port' button when I turn it on, it works! It steered part of the way up to Vallejo and from the RYC all the way down to Coyote Point after the Valljo 1-2. I think I need to turn the gain up, tho.
    S-2 7.9: "Wildcat of Loch Awe"
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

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