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Thread: Getting Ready for SHTP 2021

  1. #131
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Capitola,CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlanH View Post
    I totally forgot about the knotstick. I had one years ago and it was reasonably accurate, if you towed it for a couple minutes and glanced over 5-6 times and took an average.
    WILDFLOWER never had a knotmeter, which I consider fragile, foulable, even dangerous, as they are another thru-hull unless you are towing a Walker Log, like I did in the first SHTP. Current US Sailing Safety Equipment Regs (SER's) 4.13 require a knotmeter, or "distance measuring instrument."

    When inspected by the Chief Inspector for a past Hawaii Race on WILDFLOWER, he asked to see my speed measuring device. I gave him an orange that had written on it how to take an orange peel, drop it from the bow, time its passage to the stern, compute the speed, then eat the orange. Chuck shook his head, said that's what he used to do, and passed the "device." Not saying that would be accepted in these days of electronic safety requirements. But worked for me.

  2. #132
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    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sausalito CA
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    91

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    You can find these second hand for cheap...would check the 4.13 box....
    http://www.knotstick.com

  3. #133
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    Sep 2007
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    San Francisco Bay Area
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    1,604

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    Quote Originally Posted by Oceanslogic View Post
    You can find these second hand for cheap...would check the 4.13 box....
    http://www.knotstick.com
    I'm all over it! Low tech. I love low tech. It doesn't need electricity. There are no holes in the boat....Huge plus. Knotstick, magnetic compass, paper charts, sextant, worksheet, tables and a cheap digital watch, and if I have to, I can find my way close enough to Hawaii to get into at least one island. I'll have something like four GPS's on the boat, only one of which will depend in any way on the boats electrical system.
    S-2 7.9: "Wildcat of Loch Awe"
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  4. #134
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    Sep 2007
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    This afternoon, work was incredibly slow so I played hookey and laid up the doorskins for the companionway hatch scabbard...

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    The S2 7.9 doesn't have a scabbard, and I'm not comfortable doing out there without one, so..... It'll kick off tonight and I'll take it to the boat tomorrow for final measurements and trimming.
    S-2 7.9: "Wildcat of Loch Awe"
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  5. #135
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    Sep 2007
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    San Francisco Bay Area
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    Today was one of those days at the boat where somehow I didn't waste a lot of time, but after 6 1/2 hours I don't have a whole lot to show for it. I DID get the old wood block that supported the autopilot pin off the deck. The 3M 4200 lifted the gel goat. Seriously, I bedded that block with 4200, and I cut through as much of it as I could get to with a utility knife, and then pried it off. It came off, all right...along with about two dime-sized slabs of gel coat.

    So that got a coat of epoxy today, and will get sanded and painted, soon...and THEN the new block will go on.
    S-2 7.9: "Wildcat of Loch Awe"
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  6. #136
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    Sep 2007
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    San Francisco Bay Area
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    The PTFE tubing is taking FOR-BLUIDY-EVER to get here. So I'm waiting for that. On Saturday I realized that there was no power cord for the i40 Depth Display, in the box. So I went up on ebay and found an adpater cord...SeaTalk1 to SeaTalkNS (or whatever it is) which will work. I have to clip off the SeaTalkNS fitting, strip the wires back a bit and link the appropriate colors to enough wire to get to the breaker panel. However, it's going to take a few days for that to get here, too.

    So meanwhile, I remembered what Tom from Constellation and Pt. Richmond Canvas sewed up for me, back in 2008, for a covering for my Autohelms. I got out some old Sunbrella, left over from the project where I made a cover for the skerry. I went down to the hardware store and bought 1 yard of heavy, clear vinyl, and I made a "not waterproof, but rather water-resistant" cover for the Autohelm 2000. The thread is leftover outdoor polyester...UV-resistant. I cut the vinyl to make a window so I can see the buttons and course display. The stitching is in no way waterproof, but it's not terrible.

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    It's open at the back, where the pin and the power cord emerge. The sleeve over the pushrod is open at the bottom, it's more of a "hood" than a sleeve. I need to put about 9 inches of extender on the end of the pushrod.

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    Last edited by AlanH; 05-12-2020 at 06:00 PM.
    S-2 7.9: "Wildcat of Loch Awe"
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  7. #137
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    San Francisco Bay Area
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    The PTFE tubing arrived today, so I set it all up....no luck, still too much friction, and I liberally doused the inside of that tubing with Tri-Flow. It's slicker than....than......right..

    so I have two options.

    1. Build a rotating base, which will work for moving the vane in relation to the wind, and keep the cables, which will not be in cable housings at all, directly in line with the axis of the mast. This is basically what Jan did. It's a lot more structure and work to build. If I do t his, I ditch the entire notion of the rotation sleeve on the mast, being the course-setting mechanism....which rather sucks.

    2. Give up on a cable linkage, entirely, and move to a pushrod linkage. This would probably mean abandoning the RHM idea and going to a "regular" pendulum oar. This will also require a lot more structure to be built on the boat, however, I could stay with the rotating sleeve on the mast being the course-setting mechanism.

    Frustrated.....but it was worth trying anyway. I suspect that a significant amount of the binding is not in the monofilament/housing, but rather in the aluminum ends.
    S-2 7.9: "Wildcat of Loch Awe"
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  8. #138
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    172

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    Nice plein air workshop. Hey, what's a scabbard?

  9. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tchoupitoulas View Post
    Nice plein air workshop. Hey, what's a scabbard?
    So, think about the top of the cabin on most sailboats. There's a companionway opening, and you close off the front of it with hatchboards, right? Over the top is a sliding hatch. A scabbard is a curved sheet of wood/fiberglass that the sliding hatch slides under.

    Here's a Cal 20. Look at the sliding companionway hatch. It slides fore and aft but it doesn't slide INTO anything. So if you take a WHOLE lot of green water on deck, an awful lot of that can work it's way under that hatch and wind up in the cabin.

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    Here's a picture of a nice dodger. Do you see how the hatch, which on this boat is wood...slides INTO the raised structure on the deck, under the traveler?

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    ...that's a hatch scabbard. Back when I was going to do my first SHTP, it was required that companionway hatches be covered. I remember being slightly scandalized when Terry McKelvey had a CANVAS "scabbard" made for her Cal 2-27. It just snapped down onto snaps set into the deck. I don't think that would keep much water out.
    S-2 7.9: "Wildcat of Loch Awe"
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  10. #140
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    Sep 2007
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    3,069

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    We've always called it a sea hood. Googling it confirms such.

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