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Thread: Getting Ready for SHTP 2021

  1. #301
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    OK, I'm just going ahead and making the main rudder trim tab. I bought some stainless steel, and my friend Len S. welded the bits together today. Then I glued up materials from Greg Nelson onto the shaft. This shows the little templates I made to hold the pieces in place while Len worked his TIG magic.

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    A closeup of the welding. The washer is a "bearing surface". The last 3/4 inch of the s.s. shaft sits in a thin bushing on another piece of stainless at the bottom of the rudder. A couple of nylon washers will separate the foil of the tab, from the bushing area. So thestainless washer takes the very minimal weight of the trim tab. It will butt up next to those nylon washers.

    I think this is ridiculous overkill in terms of strength but WTH, right?

    Here, I've attached the lastafoam from Greg to the flat stock welded to the stainless rod. PFL Premium polyurethane glue is doing the work...LOVE this stuff.

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    A bit of a close-up. Note the fiberglass rod I've PL-Premium'ed to the stainless steel shaft. that will form the leading edge of the foil. Once the PL solidifies I'll make some epoxy spooge and get it in there to even things out a big and then longboard sand the lastafoam into the foil shape.

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    S-2 7.9: "Wildcat of Loch Awe"
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  2. #302
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    I've been sanding and shaping the foil. Lastafoam is pretty easy to work with. This is only the second time I've used the stuff.

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    The two slabs of lastafoam are glued to the stainless flange, which is welded to the rod. So they don't touch at the trailing edge because they're separated by the thickness of the flange. How to solve that? I mixed up some wood dough/epoxy spooge and mashed it into the space in between the two pieces and clamped the back ends together after I'd done what I estimated to be about half the sanding. The next day, well then there was more sanding, and shaping with a wood rasp.

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    The final shape of the foil is awfully "fat" but I don't want one that's more than about 2.25 inches in chord. That will be roughly 15% of the area of the main rudder blade, which is about right. It's half an inch thick....the thickness of the s.s. rod. That's a THICK foil, but what'cha gonna do? The back of the foil, you can see here off to the right. You can't see the leading edge, because of the washer that's welded on. However, remember that I laid on a 3/8 fiberglass rod onto the s.s. rod over to the left. I filled the space between fiberglass rod and s.s. rod with wood dough epoxy spooge and sanded it to pretty smooth. That's now a round leading edge, not elliptical, but hey.....

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    Last edited by AlanH; 11-14-2020 at 08:53 PM.
    S-2 7.9: "Wildcat of Loch Awe"
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  3. #303
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    Here's the layup. There are two layers of 4-inch glass tape laid on with TAP Plastics marine epoxy in medium hardener....my usual go-to. I wrote that it's 8 ounce tape on the picture, I guess it's actually 6 ounce.

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    In some of my other foils I have had to do a LOT of trailing edge cleanup, so this time I clamped it as you see it here. There's wax paper keeping the epoxy from bonding the wood pieces to the trim tab.

    It's been kicking off outside for about 6 1/2 hours. I'll take it down right before I go to bed....maybe. It's pretty cold.

    EDIT: I don't know why I can't get rid of that "attached image" down below. I've run into this problem, before.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by AlanH; 11-14-2020 at 08:30 PM.
    S-2 7.9: "Wildcat of Loch Awe"
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  4. #304
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    Here's a first look at the trimtab geometry. I wish I'd made the tab about 2 inches longer. About an inch of the bottom of the rudder will come off to mount the either steel or oak support there on the bottom. The overall rod length is exactly right, I just need about 2 more inches of foil. Grrr. What's there is rock-solid, though.

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    S-2 7.9: "Wildcat of Loch Awe"
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  5. #305
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    Sep 2007
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    San Francisco Bay Area
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    Aaaand, I just won an Ebay auction for a relatively new J-70 assy. So now I'll be taking that beefcake carbon tube i bought from Greg and making a sprit for the Wildcat.

    'cause you know, I don't have enough projects!
    S-2 7.9: "Wildcat of Loch Awe"
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  6. #306
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    Nov 2007
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    459

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    I knew you'd put it to use.

  7. #307
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    Quote Originally Posted by solosailor View Post
    I knew you'd put it to use.
    I'll have to make temporary mounts so I can put the pole on deck, somehow and try to suss out where everything should go. I've never actually sailed with an asymmetrical chute before, except for I think two Estuary races with Bob on his J-92 where I just pulled on strings and sort of did what I was told!
    S-2 7.9: "Wildcat of Loch Awe"
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  8. #308
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    Sep 2007
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    San Francisco Bay Area
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    OK, the credit card is smoking....the 34-pounds-of-buoyancy useless lifejacket is ordered.

    Stearns I160 Ocean Mate Adult Life Jacket / PFD

    Features:

    Designed for Adults Over 90 lbs
    Provides a minimum of 34 lbs of buoyancy
    Color: International Orange
    Includes reflective patches
    Heavy-duty hardware with an attached SOLAS whistle
    Light storage pocket
    Lifting loop
    Buddy line
    U.S.C.G. Approved Type I Life Jacket
    SOLAS Approved with Metal Buckle
    Complies with LSA Code 2003 Ed, MSC. 200(80), and MED

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    I guess it's not useless. If I actually have to jump in the water because the boat is sinking, I'll probably strip off the inflatable and grab that one.

    The new handheld VHF with GPS and DSC is ordered. Wow, the price dropped almost $100 from when I priced them out, about 9 months ago. While my 10+ year old simple Uniden-made West Marine handheld still works fine, it will be nice to have the DSC on the Bay when I get back and I'm sailing the piper, or cruising the delta in a small boat.

    New lower lifelines from Ryan and Rogue Rigging are now on the boat. A close reading of the rules says that the depth sounder must be "Permanently mounted", so I'll do a haulout in March and super-carefully ream out the inner glass and balsa core to make a place where I can install the transducer.

    The sprit and the assy should pay off during the middle part of the SHTP, and I got that chute for $400 plus tax and shipping...$480. What a steal.

    ----and the screaming orange eenxy weenxy storm jib is ordered. May it never come out of it's bag.
    S-2 7.9: "Wildcat of Loch Awe"
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  9. #309
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Bodfish, CA
    Posts
    218

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    As requested-

    I bought the canoe used from a neighbor in 1967. It was light and built with fiberglass cloth. It was not well suited for going over ledges on the Delaware River, so with fiberglass worn through on part of keel, it was mine. The repair was easily completed. At about 50 pounds, the canoe was a keeper.

    Being influenced by Adirondack Guideboats, it seems rowing would be a good change.

    Luckily, I ended up with a pair of light, 7 foot spoon blade oars and some suggestions for rowing dimensions. The oarlocks needed to be extended from the gunwale and the canoe stiffened.

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    The first iteration looked like this.

    The gunwales/inwales were needing replacement and the aluminum outriggers were crude - plate aluminum shaped after cardboard patterns were taped together. It was tested at Virginia Lakes at 10,000 foot elevation and seems OK, but a little crude.

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    Serious modifications came next. New gunwales / inwales. Seats changed to webbing. Four foot decks on either end, as well as bracing for the hull at the rowing station. I also wanted the decks to have a high ridge at centerline so decks would curve downward. Trimming about 1 1/2 inches of shear helped get nicer deck shape.

    The original deck plan was to use plywood, but fastening did not come up with easy solution. Being intrigued with skin-on-frame construction (but with no experience), I Opted for fabric decks.

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    Some of the framing and deck supports.

    For fishing use, a depth sounder fish finder was added. A small 1 pound lithium ion battery powered it.

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    This was getting close to the end, but the rowing was fussy. It turns out the height from seat to oarlocks was 7-inches and most recommendations were 8-12 inches.

    One last change is in the works (maybe). The rowing outrigger will raise oarlocks 1 1/2-inches and solve the problem of loosening screws on aluminum outrigger.Name:  image.jpeg
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    The photo also shows bracing from seat support to hull. The fiberglass was very flexible. A strip planked boat with fiberglass would be much stiffer.

    Ants
    Last edited by AntsUiga; 11-22-2020 at 09:34 AM.

  10. #310
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    201

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    Nice fleet Ants. But a place to keep them all? Super envious.

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