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Thread: Getting Ready for SHTP 2021

  1. #81
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    I just snagged one of these...https://www.ebay.com/itm/Seco-Larm-E...ss!94025!US!-1



    Greg Nelson pointed out something very much like this many years ago and I've had them on both my Santana 3030 and on the Santa Cruz 27. Seal the lens threads with silicon and they're waterproof.
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962 Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  2. #82
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    Today I'm just fairing the pendulum oar blade, with 95% of the fairing effort spent below the waterline. I also grabbed a couple of little s.s. bolts and locknuts from the hardware store when I went in for some plumbing pieces, and now the wind vane blade is attached to the carrier. That will be worth a photograph, once I get the counterweight on.

    Oh, and maybe some painting, today. Work is slow.
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962 Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  3. #83
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    Here's a first look at the Vane assembly, actually on the pole.
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    It's by no means completed, but it's far enough along to get an actual look at how it will appear on the boat, so I clamped it to my sawhorse and snapped that shot.
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962 Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  4. #84
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    I see that my thread title has been changed to 2021! LOL.... I'll be having that talk with Joan this week!
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962 Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  5. #85
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    OK, after doing nothing yesterday, and not much on Friday, I had two hours to get some stuff done today. I measured, and put the pendulum oar on the table saw, and cut the balance cut-back today. I actually probably should have cut back another 1/4 inch, but we'll see how this works. I also glassed the raw, front edge, and smeared epoxy on the now-bare, trimmed-off top edge to seal it.

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    I trimmed the bottom and got some glass on it. I'm somewhat concerned that the foil is not as symmetrical as I thought it was. This could mess up everything.

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    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962 Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  6. #86
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    When I set up the windvane mast and the vane assembly the other day, I left it up for about 8 hours, clamped to one of my sawhorses. Come to find out that the weight of the wind blade, the carrier, and the counterweight was too much for the single-screw and lockwasher that I had used to attach it to the little aluminum "triangle" that I made. I needed something stronger. ...something that wouldn't "sag" and change the angle of the pivot rod.

    So I measured stuff and eyeballed carefully, and marked up a piece of aluminum stock that I've had forever. Then, since I haven't gotten the workbench cleaned off yet, I' clamped it to the fence and hacksawed out this piece.

    It's rock solid, and will NOT move from the 20 degrees I designed it at!

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    WIN!
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962 Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  7. #87
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    I puttered for about 4 hours but just did little stuff today...JB-welded an aluminum gusset onto the crosspiece that carries the cables. Once that's set up and back on the vane, it should make the push-pull of the cables more solid...less slop. I drilled that crosspiece as well...

    wire brushed, primed and painted the counterweight.

    PL-Premium'ed wood blocks on the pendulum oar carrier to screw the gudgeons into. We are getting close to painting-time for the oar carrier. Nothing here is worth taking a picture of!

    I also knocked a wedge into my emergency rudder cassette, as when the wood dried, it shrank and the plywood sides bowed in a bit. It was impossible to get the rudder more than halfway into it! I'll leave this wedge in there for a week, then take it out and knock it into the other end. That should open things up. I also epoxied the bushings into the gudgeons; a two-minute job that took me three months to do!
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962 Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  8. #88
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    Today was a low motivation day. I painted some bits...stared at the dinghy pintles and decided that I blew it, I made the the rudder too thick for them, so I need to either buy new ones or make some, and hacksawed the corners off of some other bits.
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962 Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  9. #89
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    Yesterday I had a motivational crisis LOL...so between yesterday and the day before all I did was:

    1. prime, then paint the oar carrier
    2. dip the counterweight in a can of marine enamel to get it really thickly coated.
    3. Hacksaw, and round some of the aluminum bits that the hinge on top of the oar will ride on
    4. epoxied the vane carrier assembly to the tube that goes around the mast.
    5. put the piece of redwood that the cable ends will go on, on the belt sander and true'd up some angles, got rid of some saw gouges.

    Today, so far I blew up the budget at the bike shop on ten feet of teflon-lined cable housing, ferrules, and stainless steel brake cable. This was something like 30 bucks.

    no pictures....this is not terribly photogenic stuff.

    I measured the thickness of the pendulum oar and it's 7/8 th's of an inch thick. My free pintles are for a 3/4 inch rudder. I can cram it on there, but I can't shove it all the way on without cutting through the glass and carbon. With it 80% of the way on, the pin is way out in front of the leading edge, and while I can get both of the through-bolts on them, the axis of rotation is going to be pushed forward...what I DON'T want. So today I bought two 1/4 inch bolts, and I will cut the threads off and bury them in redwood and fiberglass, to make DIY pintles which sit very close to the leading edge of the pendulum oar cutback. THAT is photograph worthy!
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962 Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

  10. #90
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    This lousy picture shows the triangular gusset I made to support and increase leverage on the aluminum piece to which the linkage cables are attached. The triangular piece is edge-glued to the main carrier with JB Weld and then I slapped on a couple of gussets to reinforce the attachment, also with JB Weld. It's somewhat less than glamorous, but it will work. I use JB Weld a lot when I'm working with metal, as I don't have welding or silver-soldering/propane brazing capabilities....though I probably should get the relatively inexpensive kit to be able to silver-solder/braze aluminum.

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    BLARG!!!!... @#$%^&*()_!!! ... the gudgeons are bigger than 1/4 inch. OK, so they'll have, what we'll call..."bushings" made out of PL Premium. Yesterday I put some redwood on the table saw and VERY carefully, using pusher sticks to keep my fingers away, cut small angled pieces to hold the bolts. I used my Dremel-clone rotary tool to grind grooves in it. Then I hacksawed the threads off of two 1/4 inch stainless steel bolts. I put them on my grinder and rounded off the bottoms, then filed 'em smooth at the bottom. One is about 1/4 inch longer than the other. I scratched up the top inch of the bolt with a hacksaw and then used JB Weld steel-reinforced epoxy to lay them into the grooves I cut in the wood.

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    The wood will be epoxied to the leading edge of the rudder, in the cutback area, and then attached with 3-4 straps of 1.25-inch wide glass cloth in epoxy. I wish I had some linear carbon fiber left, but 'glass will be strong enough for this.
    1968 Selmer Series 9 B-flat and A clarinets
    1962 Buesher "Aristocrat" tenor saxophone
    Piper One Design 24, Hull #35; "Alpha"

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