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Thread: Lifeline question (and hello)

  1. #11
    Darren is offline Enough to be safely dange
    Join Date
    Feb 2022
    Location
    San Jose/Coyote Point Marina
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    29

    Default

    When I bought my boat I had 24" single line lifelines. I measured them when I was ordering new ones. My first sail out of Emeryville a good friend of mine who I had been sailing with for almost 10 yrs at that point. After about 30 minutes or so he realized we never brought in the fenders went forward to grab them. High side went fine. Then he went to grab the low side fenders a gust hit he stepped into the bay to catch his balance. Luckily he didn't go overboard. Needless to say those we're the first things I upgraded.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    San Francisco
    Posts
    113

    Default Avoid the coated wire...

    From a comfort point of view coated and uncoated are pretty much the same (if you don't add a slide on cushion they are uncomfortable leaning against for very long). Uncoated is required for a number of races so why add uncertainty of racing rules (which using coated does)? 18 years on a set of uncoated... I had to change one segment when a single wire sprung at a stanchion... now I race shorthanded and crewed... so at times 8 people hanging against those lifelines...

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Posts
    14

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    Jim,
    My eyebrows raised when I saw 18 years. For safety's sake, it's prudent to replace wire lifelines every 10 years (and all wire rigging for that matter). You never know when you might need them.
    R
    Quote Originally Posted by JimQuanci View Post
    From a comfort point of view coated and uncoated are pretty much the same (if you don't add a slide on cushion they are uncomfortable leaning against for very long). Uncoated is required for a number of races so why add uncertainty of racing rules (which using coated does)? 18 years on a set of uncoated... I had to change one segment when a single wire sprung at a stanchion... now I race shorthanded and crewed... so at times 8 people hanging against those lifelines...

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Richmond YC
    Posts
    62

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bombora View Post
    Jim,
    My eyebrows raised when I saw 18 years. For safety's sake, it's prudent to replace wire lifelines every 10 years (and all wire rigging for that matter). You never know when you might need them.
    R
    We had a lifeline break on sea star last year. No visible corrosion on outside, but inside the swage, only 1 shiny wire. I think that wire was around 8 years. We changed all the wire.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Capitola,CA
    Posts
    3,338

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    Quote Originally Posted by sleddog View Post
    Lace-line (netting) zig-zagging fore and aft on foredeck lifelines not only keeps sails, sailbags, and spinnaker poles aboard, but sliding bodies as well..If anyone wants to learn, feel free to get in touch.
    Here is a recent photo of an O-29 prepping for the 2023 SHTP. The new lifelines are 5/16" HMPE with splices and lashings. No metal involved All DIY. The netting took 20 minutes/side.

    Name:  Lifelines.jpg
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  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,688

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    Yes, slotted aluminum toerails make it easy to install netting.

    I'd cut and tie off the bow end of those jacklines. If one end comes loose you'd lose the whole thing, plus once it gets wet it gets slack. Half the length means half the slackness.

    I gather that's Todd Olsen's new ride?
    .
    Last edited by BobJ; 03-12-2022 at 02:00 PM.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3,485

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    So Todd now has two zoom/zoom rides. Wow. Talk about keeping a low profile. Well, I guess that's easy since we never see each other in person anymore. Sigh.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Capitola,CA
    Posts
    3,338

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    Quote Originally Posted by BobJ View Post
    Yes, slotted aluminum toerails make it easy to install netting.
    Slotted aluminum toerails are not ideal, as their edges chafe the netting cord. I prefer teak toerails like yours, and drill 3/16", horizontal holes through the teak rail to thread the netting cord thru.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    77

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    Here is a recent photo of an O-29 prepping for the 2023 SHTP. The new lifelines are 5/16" HMPE with splices and lashings. No metal involved All DIY.
    If it is allowed by the race rules, I would go for bare metal stainless on the upper lifeline and HMPE on the lower lifeline.

    As I mention in my book and in a recent posting about rescuing someone singlehanded, the ability to cut the lower lifeline and crawl (or pull someone) back on board is very important. The HMPE lower lifeline will allow that.

    On the other hand, I find that when I'm walking to the bow, grabbing onto a more solid stainless lifeline on the upper feels more secure than the loose/soft Dynema. If I'm leaning back while at the helm, I prefer the solid feel of the stainless upper. And if I'm working on deck, I can judge my position by resting my knee/calf against the upper stainless lifeline.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2022
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    27

    Default Thanks!

    Just so people know I listen to (and appreciate) the advice... I had my lifelines replaced with stainless, given @BobJ's comments about the upcoming rules change.

    I'm quite happy with it, though I have noticed some rust - which I do not remember happening before - on the base of only some stanchions. I assume this is weird electrolysis, and further assume maybe only those (? why?) stanchions had a different-metal screw in the base or something. I have not tracked it down yet.

    Next up is to lace them (thanks @sleddog for the picture), but since I lack the full-length toerail I have to figure out a system.

    I do plan to keep some wirecutters near the MOB kit in case I need to cut them, given @Foolish 's comment.

    Thanks again to all.

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