Well there's no ONE right way:
1) Twist them together and stick a piece of tape over the joint - matching colors doesn't matter
2) Get a really long piece of wire (so you don't HAVE to splice it) and coil up the extra next to the panel (on really fancy yachts you could put a wire tie around the coil)
3) Move the thing you're wiring so the wire will reach
4) Get the brand that comes with the longest wires in the box
I got this boat wiring thing nailed!
Seriously, if you are doing a lot of wiring work or instrument/power installations, it is worth it to buy one of these babies
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-m...r-kit--8956906
Here's a question. I have a Brookhouse multiplexor to merge AIS and NEMA navigation data. The setup has never worked properly to get AIS data to my charplotter, which is a Lowrance, and not very good.
Now I have an iPad, and I just bought the iNavX navigation app and downloaded all my charts, and I'd like to get all this data onto WiFi. Also, I think even using the laptop might be easier, it would cut down on the number of cables.
Does anyone have experience with any of the Wifi-capable muxes? I'm thinking Shipmodule, Vesper, etc.
Coming soon to the SSS Resources page: "The Scottish CPA's Guide to Cheap Boat Wiring." A few more tips from various chapters:
- Use extension cords as a source for wire. You already have a bunch of them and they come in the two most popular colors for boat interiors (white and brown). When the wire inside turns black it loses weight, and we all know light is fast.
- For wire colors, mix and match the colors from your favorite sports teams. When the Giants won last year I started using orange and black for everything. Then Chicken Shack closed so I had to substitute red for orange, but it works fine. On the port side red is positive; on the starboard side it's negative - I like symmetry (except in my spinnakers).
- Special tip for singlehanders: Don't waste valuable time labeling anything. You ran the wire - you know where it goes!
- Charge your batteries and turn everything on before starting your wiring project. It saves all those trips to the panel from the bowels of the boat, and when you get it right all the lights come on.
You're welcome.
______________
Pro tip from Phil: Do not, under any circumstances, do ANYTHING Bob suggests above.
Last edited by BobJ; 07-27-2015 at 05:57 PM.
Chris,
I had a preliminary discussion with Bob Congdon this morning, and in two hours I am going to have a more in depth discussion and start ordering parts. I've also decided to take your suggestion and get the Vesper AIS system if it is Both send and receive, or more specifically, Is the XB 8000 both send and receive? (A & B?)
Jim
Hi Guys ,
For AIS, Class A refers to high power systems used on commercial vessels. Class B is for lower transmission power systems typically installed in pleasure craft and maybe smaller fishing boats. Both A and B refer to transponders, which means send + receive. There are also various devices that are receive-only, but these are neither Class A or Class B. Class B devices also transmit less data, fewer times per minute, while from Class A vessels you can learn all sorts of things like their destination port, how long they are, etc etc.
See: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automa...ication_System